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There are two underground stations that are linked together in the heart of Paris: Châtelet and Les Halles.
When possible, I avoid getting on or off the train in that area because it can be overwhelming. It always takes me a few minutes to orient myself between all the exits, and there are many.
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Châtelet and Les Halles are what I would call the travel arteries of Paris.
Each place has its own metro station. Combined, they make up one big station for the RER (regional) train called “Châtelet - Les Halles”. The RER station is one of the largest in the world and provides access to Paris in any direction.
See why I avoid it?
Back in the day, Châtelet was an old fortress along the right bank of the Seine. It contained a police station, a court, and prisons. It had common-law jurisdiction under the monarchy until the French Revolution.
Les Halles dates back to the 12th century, when it was built on top of old swamplands. Centrally located, it was THE place for Parisians to buy their fresh produce and other items.
In 1769, under the reign of Louis XVI, a new ‘Halle’ was built along with a vegetable, fruit and flower market. But there were problems with overcrowding and unhygienic conditions.
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In the 1800s, the French writer Émile Zola called Les Halles ‘the belly of Paris’. He even wrote a book with that title about the French working class, published in 1873.
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Nearly 100 years later, an architect named Victor Baltard created a new structure featuring multiple pavilions that created a more organized market. It provided sectioned areas for vendors to sell everything from fish, meat, and vegetables to flowers and other wares. Baltard’s beautiful designs were made of metal and glass and lent themselves to the open, airy feel of a market space. (Some are still around today, like Halle St. Pierre in Montmartre.)
In the 20th century, Paris became busier and more crowded. The grand market at Les Halles remained unsanitary and it took up prime real estate in the center of Paris. So, authorities decided to tear it down in 1969. It was later replaced by a mostly-underground shopping center that exists today. If you want to stock up on French clothing and other items, Forum Les Halles has all the good clothing brands, a terrific cinema, and a ton of restaurants.
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Recently I walked around Les Halles on a Sunday morning. It resembled New Orleans the morning after Mardi Gras celebrations, minus the puke. That’s the kind of place is is now. However, there are tons of restaurants, shops and cafes to amuse you, though it’s a little chaotic.
To wrap up this little history lesson: if you come to Paris and pass through or by Chatelet/Les Halles, now you know it was once a bustling marketplace before it became the commercial empire it is today.
Sources:
Les Halles de Paris : un quartier emblématique au cœur de la capitale
Le Figaro - the secret history of Les Halles (in French)
Le grand Châtelet - Histoires de Paris (histoires-de-paris.fr)
Thank you Jenn. I dislike this area and I am not a fan of the 'new' underground centre at all BUT, in fact I'd like to know even more about tis history. Thank you for this post.
Judy
Another good read.